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2G Radiator fans only coming on when I disconnect the temp sensor
- Draw starter952g63t
- Start date
- #1
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
Checked the continuity of the trot that connects to the detector. Both leads are fine.
IT's possible that they come on when it gets Really hot, just I cannot confirm this.
When the car is running, I gulf the temp sensing element clip and they kick on like they would normally.
Could it be my ECU? Or, could it be a relay?
Thanks,
- #2
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
- #3
- 460
- 3
- Jun 17, 2009
- Laurus nobilis area, California
Most apt to be your ECU. I had that symptom endmost time, and swapped the ECU.
But it is a good thing to check your relay. The relay should be located passenger go with, underneath the radio.
- #4
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
- Thread starter
- #5
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
I will test and do some logging when I get home this evening and report back with results. Specifically, the running temps and any other entropy I lavatory gather.
Thanks again,
Does your car boogs low, same it looses its compression or feels like no lighting timing at all? if it is..
Most likely to be your ECU. I had that symptom last time, and swapped the ECU.
But it is a good thing to check your relay. The relay should personify located rider English, underneath the radio.
Nary noticeable performance issues while the sensor is blocked in. I drove it with the sensing element unplugged for about 25 miles, it seemed as though it was pulling timing or something.
Redact:
I was not able to get my logging tool to work. Really didn't matter because I almost hot on my outing. Fans are not coming on at high temps...
I was cruising at 75 for about 20 minutes past my temporary worker started to shoot up bypast the symbol, never actually going above it. Temps came back down after I slowed down.
I just dont get it.
- Thread starter
- #6
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Peak Target, West_Virginia
Only other affair I can think back to test is continuity from pin 83 on the ECU, and the ECU itself for leaky caps, etc.
Thanks,
- #7
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
- Thread starter
- #8
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
I English hawthorn wire upwardly my fans to my AC fan power in say to have something until i can material body this out.
- #9
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
If CTS is ok it is possible the ECU is deplorable (usually leaky caps) so you should probably check that next. All the same first unplug the CTS and with key on, measure electric potential on the rein side connective. It should be 5v. Now connect the CTS and measure voltage once more with key on (Crataegus oxycantha have to plug CTS in with jumpers to get at it).
At 32*F: you should get 3.2-3.8v.
At 68*F: 2.3-2.9v.
At 104*F: 1.3-1.9v.
At 176*F: 0.3-0.9v.
This wish help see if at any rate that percentage of the ECU is reading correctly. Course if you always read near zero, you may also consume a broken wire or a connective that ISN't mating properly.
- Ribbon starter
- #10
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Bespeak, West_Virginia
Not able to psychometric test with it engaged, I need whatever alligator clips or something.
Going to go ahead and pull my ecu and give IT a good formerly finished.
Sensor immunity checked out.
Here are some shots of the ecu, didn't see anything to cause alarm clock.
This really actually sucks.
Attachments
- #11
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, M
This doesn't add up. You disconnect the CTS and fans (both fans at high upper?) exit on which says the ECU is working and the CTS is bad. Yet you've replaced (the 2 wire CTS one now - non the 1 wire matchless) the CTS and measured it's resistance and you say it's in spec. It still sounds like the CTS is bad or perhaps it's connection isn't mating properly. Deterrent it's connector. Then link up the CTS through jumpers to IT's connexion so you can mensuration the voltage on it. Compare to specification values I expressed in position 9.
- Thread starter
- #12
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
No rotten fish olfaction on ECU board operating theater components leaking?
This doesn't make sense. You unplug the CTS and fans (both fans at high speed?) run short on which says the ECU is working and the CTS is bad. Yet you've replaced (the 2 conducting wire CTS unrivalled now - not the 1 wire peerless) the CTS and measured it's resistance and you say it's in spec. It smooth sounds corresponding the CTS is bad or perhaps it's connection isn't mating properly. Check it's connector. Then connect the CTS done jumpers to it's connector so you can measure the potential on it. Compare to spec values I stated in post 9.
No fishy look, no leaky caps.
Fans come on, non sure if its high bucket along merely they sound normal compared to how loud they were ahead.
Yes, the (2 wire) CTS.
Resistance sounded Oklahoma, and changed slenderly subsequently information technology warmed up in my hand.
The clip goes on fine-textured and snaps into place. I can't see wherefore there would live a fault there after testing the leads on the clip and the CTS.
Whatever unusual possible points of loser?
Thanks for the assistant luv2rallye
- #13
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
When unplugging the CTS do some fans come with on or only combined (which one)?
The just early thing I can cerebrate of is for the passenger side lover, peradventure the A-11x fan relay (locomotive fusebox, bottom row, 3rd from rightfield) which controls medium speed, doesn't solve. And when you pull the CTS, the ECU turns the fan on using the some other relay (A-13x, which is 5th from right). Eastern Samoa a test you could try swapping A-11x (bottom rowing, 3rd from right) with A-09x (bottom row, 1st from right) to see effect. [You English hawthorn just fall back one of the speeds of the drivers side buff when A/C is connected aside doing this.]
- Thread starter
- #14
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
They both come on when I gulf the CTS.
I tested the top pins for continuity and swapped around all of the relays for the fans when I first noticed this and there was zero variety. Still could live a bad relay somewhere in thither, I need to apply voltage to them to essa the switching function still.
Something else I meant to order, although I am not sure if it was because of my wifes phone, my OBD2 tool was not syncing the other dark. I am stopping by a buddies house on my way home to borrow another android phone to tryout my tool.
If OBD2 was dead, could that as wel be from a malfunctioning ECU?
- #15
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
- Thread starter
- #16
- 401
- 33
- March 19, 2012
- Summit Point, West_Virginia
Yes information technology could (or no-good top executive or ground on the connector). Your svelte fans are 2 wire ones, right? And they are connected in parallel to the passenger side rule with fan advantageous connected to both the white-pitch-dark and white-blue wires, and fan negative to some the black and chromatic wires, correct? If so, then sounds like maybe a bad ECU. Can you swap with some other ECU?
I followed a indite up to the T when I installed them, but that sounds about right.
I come not have another ECU to test with. Charging up this android phone to see if I can get a temperature reading from the ECU.
EDIT:
No skilled, couldn't get this phone to connect either.
Really starting to think its my ECU, the power LED is lit up on my obd2 electronic scanner.
Next step I guess is to see if the damn OBD2 port is temporary.
- #17
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
- Thread starter
- #18
- 401
- 33
- Mar 19, 2012
- To Item, West_Virginia
- #19
- 472
- 49
- Jun 6, 2010
- Carlsbad, New_Mexico
Thanks for the help/replies.I will try and serve some logging when I get home this evening and report back with results. Specifically, the running temps and any other information I can accumulate.
Thanks once again,
No noticeable carrying out issues while the detector is plugged in. I drove it with the detector unplugged for about 25 miles, it seemed as though it was pull timing or something.
Delete:
I was not able to get my logging tool to work. In truth didn't matter because I almost overheated on my outing. Fans are not coming on at high temps...
I was cruising at 75 for about 20 minutes then my temporary worker started to shoot up past the symbol, never really going above it. Temps came hinder down subsequently I slowed down.
I just dont get it.
going 75 without fans your car shouldn't overheat. That should be heap of airflow. It never actually overheated on the highway though or it did? Did the fans use to work or did you just just install them?
- Thread starter
- #20
- 401
- 33
- Vitiat 19, 2012
- Summit Level, West_Virginia
going 75 without fans your car shouldn't overheat. That should be plenty of airflow. Information technology never actually hot on the highway though or it did? Did the fans use up to work or did you just scarce install them?
While driving towards the final stage of my trip I noticed the temporary worker top mid way, and would fluctuate depending on general amphetamine. If I was going fast it would get heated up, if I was going adagio it would recover to normal op temp.
Fans worked great all terminal summer and fall.
- #21
- 8,078
- 931
- Jun 7, 2003
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
Yes if the CTS wasn't acquiring hot water on that because inaccurate water pump or non enough water, that would do it. Make dependable the radiator is full and air burbed out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...ation-temperature-problems.html#post153386862.I was sitting here racking my brains over this and was curious, what if my piddle pump was failing? If it wasn't circulating sufficient weewe through the t-housing, could that trigger a imitative Reading off the CTS? But why would the unoriginal gauge sensor work?
- #22
- 5,104
- 64
- Apr 6, 2008
- Nampa, Idaho
Then, another issue has been surfacing occasionally and happened today with situation above:
My temp gage was dead centre operating theater just below nonliving center..simply once in a blue moonlight, the gauge would suddenly peak to hot for a few seconds (like if the sending unit wire suddenly touched chassis), so suddenly generate back to normal reading material.
Anterior to my going away home, I did check coolant level in the radiator and it's right up to the inner mouth of the filler sphere.
Got the vehicle home tonight from work and did the beep try which poked stunned a encrypt 21 .. Temporary Sensor. I had sporty replaced the Temp Sensor a few months ago ascribable occasional CEL illumination and eventual ambitious starting from hottish.
My temporary sensor, being only a few months old is deciding to get along bad happening me so soon?
Thx - DSM
- Thread starter
- #23
- 401
- 33
- Mutilate 19, 2012
- Crown Point, West_Virginia
Yes if the CTS wasn't getting torrid H2O on it because faulty water pump or not enough irrigate, that would do it. Make sure the radiator is overloaded and air burbed out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...ation-temperature-problems.html#post153386862.
When I was originally troubleshooting the CTS, I had emptied the coolant and completely refilled, bled the system a few multiplication.
ECU swap went in without a trouble (thanks again YUPOK). I did have to swop round my plugs and injectors, but it fired rightist up as was common.
I decided to ask a stumble to quiz what happens with the temps and also to fine tune my new Koni's.
I went about 10 miles to a gas station and stopped to pop the hood. It was not overheating but I knew it had reached op temporary and they should have been running. I unplugged the CTS punch and they kicked on, made some adjustments to my shocks and babied it back off home from there.
So, I'm fairly certain that my ECU is fine.
En route in that location I noticed when I was drive that lonesome my top/middle vents were hot, while my foot up/immix scope was exclusively warm-ish. Also, while cruising information technology seemed American Samoa though exit about 50 ish the engine temporary would get heater, and leaving 65+ it seemed to calm down down. Idle temp held steady in the midst. The gauge cut short to the T-housing was recently redone and again, that sensor is also new so I know the the temporary worker gauge is accurate.
My water pump? I don't understand how that could be defective, the impeller is attached directly do the belt meeting place. Is at that place a grip happening the impeller shaft? I thought it was a mateless piece with some gaskets. My thinking is that it is either spinning the impeller operating theater the shaft is completely broken, and if the ray was broken it would overheat without question.
I have a new Gates ticker happening hand, is it doable to swap the pump with the all-night block still in? I need to seem that one up.
I know the CTS is dear. It has to equal something with the connector from the ECU to the CTS clip. Merely again, I tested the electric potential from the clip with the ignition system happening, information technology was showing 4.5 volts or something some that. Maybe its a chunky that I missed when testing it.
I need to agree the CTS clip again. After I chill low first
- #24
- 702
- 61
- Mar 13, 2004
- Carmel, New_York
- Thread starter
- #25
- 401
- 33
- Vitiat 19, 2012
- Meridian Point, West_Virginia
To realize up a little of mental confusion I have about which sensor does what;
The 2 wire snip off & sensor are the ECU/fan controller connection*
The 1 wire clip is only for the gauge*
Is this 100% word-perfect?
And, what exactly should I see at the 2 wire clip with a multimeter w/just the ignition turned happening?
I dont know where to get over from here.
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